By Grant Cunningham
In this excerpt from the Gun Digest ebook of the Revolver, provide Cunningham covers after diversity consultation cleansing systems, the right way to get rid of lead from the bore and the way to right firearm garage.
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In fact, I’m not really sure how to classify it, but because of the similarity of application I’ll include it here: Boeshield T-9. T-9 was developed at and used for rust prevention by Boeing in Seattle, who later licensed the commercial production to PMS Products in Michigan. It was formulated for the kind of damp environment in which I live, and works superbly for medium-term storage and occasional use. Boeshield is very effective even in rough conditions; hunters in this part of the country swear by it, and I admit to being a fan as well.
Having a second bore rod is ever so helpful here, as it saves the tedium of screwing and unscrewing attachments. ) Dip the patch in your cleaner and run it through the bore several times to lift out any grime the brush has loosened. The wet patch should come out of the bore dirty. If it’s particularly so, indicating a lot of dirt still in the barrel, get a new patch, dip it in cleaner, and repeat the action. Repeat this process until the patches start to look fairly clean. Once you reach that point attach a clean, dry patch to the jag and run it through the bore one time.
The major concern is getting the correct viscosity for the application. ) Motor oils generally carry SAE classifications, while industrial oils are usually rated according to the ISO scale. They are not equivalent. For those familiar with automotive oils, a 30w motor oil is roughly an ISO 100 equivalent, while a 10w oil would be about 25 on the ISO chart. Greases are rated by the National Lubricating Grease Institute, and they issue an NLGI grade. A typical automotive bearing grease is NLGI #2 and has the consistency of peanut butter.